Train tracks to link Asian nations

Train lovers and travel nuts have long had a dream of going from Europe to Singapore by rail.

The journey to the East goes well as far as China, and the upgrading of tracks - sometimes with high-speed trains - is easing passage as far as Hong Kong.

From then on south, the rail buff, and potential cargo carriers, must wait just a few more years.

From south China into South East Asia is a bigger leap than it looks on the map - and not only for trains.

Diplomacy and funding from France and the Asian Development Bank (ADB) have been agreed for the next step, from China to the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi.

And there are more routes being built from Kunming in the Chinese province of Yunnan.

Regional transport specialists told the BBC that two-thirds of the line from Kunming to the Chinese side of the border is completed, and a project is under way on the Vietnamese side to Lao Khai on the border.

MORE from the source at BBC News

France to unveil super-fast train

The AGV (Automotrice Grande Vitesse) train will travel at up to 360km/h (224mph), powered by engines placed under each carriage, the company says.

The unveiling at Alstom's research centre in La Rochelle will be attended by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.

With an engine under each carriage, the AGV - which translates as "high-speed, self-propelled carriage" - is unlike the TGV, which has engines only at the back and front.

The TGV's maximum speed currently is 320km/h.

The AGV's new engines are more energy-efficient and the innovative multiple-unit design allows more passenger space, Alstom says.

It also reduces maintenance costs, the company says.

The new train achieved a new world rail speed record for a train on conventional rails last April, reaching 574.8km/h (356mph).

The Italian operator NTV has already bought 25 of the trains, and will operate them on the Italian high-speed network at a speed of 300km/h in 2011.

Source

Every model railroad magazine in one place!

Ever had a problem finding the great model train magazines that are around these days? Perhaps they do not stock some of them where you live? Well the search is over thanks to this great site we just found. click here.

Devoted collector’s ‘ultimate train set’ set to fetch £30,000 at auction

Clifford Patrick, of Surrey, created the set in his attic and was a collector of Hornby O-Gauge model railways until his death in 2003. The entire collection is to be auctioned separately by his family. Duncan Chilcott, of the auctioneers Chilcotts in Tiverton, Devon, said that it was one of the finest and most impressive prewar model train sets.

“The layout included sidings, tunnels and sections of countryside, and among all this were Dinky model cars, taxis and trucks, figures of railway workers and passengers, and sheep and horses, also in good condition. It all looked very realistic, just as Frank Hornby had intended,” he added.

Among the most coveted items are the Folkestone Flyer (likely to fetch £1,000 to £1,500) and the Cornish Riviera Express (£500 to £800) electric passenger train sets. A further 12 locomotives could be sold for up to £400 each.

Dr Patrick’s other models include flying boats, jet airliners, rare classic and sports cars, and groups of stations and platforms.

The sale of 345 lots will be on October 23.

Rod Stewart is a model railway enthusiast

His secret is a spectacular model railway set. Laid out at his mansion in Beverley Hills, it is a perfect 1:87 scale model of New York’s Grand Central Station in the 1940s.

It comprises 100 ft of track, scores of period locomotives and carriages with a backdrop of skyscrapers, streets, railway buildings and hundreds of tiny passengers.

The 62-year-old rock 'n’ railer, as he may now become known, has long craved recognition for his private hobby. He said several years ago that such an honour would “mean more to me than the cover of Rolling Stone”.

He explained: “I’m a great model railway enthusiast and I’m building a huge layout over there in California so that takes up a little bit of time and football takes up a little bit of time.”

It is just as well that Stewart, whose previous blonde model lovers have included Kelly Emberg and Rachel Hunter (his second wife), has sold 250 million records and had 62 hit singles. Recreating Grand Central Station is not child’s play.

The largest train station in the world, it has 44 platforms, 67 tracks, a cavernous concourse with clock faces made from opal and a clock on the front of the station that is the largest example of Tiffany glass in the world. Find out more here

TRAIN TRADER (Southern Hemisphere)

These guys are the southern hemisphere's leading retailer of new and pre-owned electric model trains, accessories and fixtures, and Sydney's largest specialist model train shop and repairer. They stock an extensive range of quality pre-owned model locomotives and rolling stock, and specialize in those hard-to-get collectors items. You will find excellent examples from the following manufacturers:

Marklin, Marklin mini-club, TRIX, Hornby, Wren Railways, Hornby Dublo, LGB, Lima, Rivarossi, Roco, and Fleischmann. Contact them here

32nd Annual Dayton Train Show

This is one of the biggest and best in the state of Ohio with thousands of square feet featuring the largest exhibition of operating train layouts in the area, vendor tables and trains for the kids to ride.

The show, presented by National Model Railroad Association, features over 300 tables that will showcase all the new, antique and collectible trains and accessories needed to start or expand a model train hobby.

Continuous “how-to” clinics, door prizes and a layout raffle round out the show. Kids can look for the “Thomas the Tank Engine” display and enter to win a “Thomas” train set.

Hours are Saturday, November 3 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m and Sunday, November 4 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Admission is $5, good both days of the show. Children under 12 are admitted free. Parking is free. For more information on this event go here

New Model Train Videos Posted

To watch the videos below simply click the Play button under the picture.

Depending on your connection speed, they may not play smoothly. If that happens click the Play button again (this will pause it) and wait a few minutes to let the video stream. Then click Play and it should be fine. Special thanks to the many people who helped compile these videos.

Enjoy!

Reedsvill Railroad with Johnny Cash

Japanese train model "ENODEN".

Narrow gauge model exhibition

Model railway exhibition in the "smalspoormuseum Valkenburgse meer", a narrow gauge railway museum in the Netherlands.

Drummer Creek Garden Railroad Video

Learn about the Greatest Hobby in the World! Large Scale Model Railroading

Aztec Trains Model Railroad Track Cleaner

John Claudino shows some of his model railroad track cleaning cars that he designed and
manufactures. His track cleaning cars can be used on HO and N Scale model railroads.

Nice layout at a model railroad show (Click to play)

Update on next edition and a free gift for you

Just a quick note to let you know that due
to health reasons, Albert has still been
unable to finish the new edition.

We're very sorry about this and will let you
know if and when it is completed.

You can however get a great guide
called "How to operate and build a model
railroad" for free by clicking here:

http://www.modeltrainreport.com/

Thanks for your understanding,

Tech support

Model Railroader magazine's "Layout in a Week" project.

During the week of February 6, 2006, watch the MR staff build the Black River Junction – a '50s-era HO scale model railroad. In addition to watching the construction process, be sure to check the Weblog for progress updates and to see close-up photos of some of the work. The Black River Junction series will be featured beginning in the January 2007 issue of MR. Enjoy the show!

Click Here For The Model Train Layout Project

Posted by Albert Williamson

Henri Collin's Model Diesel Locomotive!

This beauty is powered by a Kubota 2 cylinder diesel engine.

You can see the locomotive in action in the Turnhout (Belgium) city park. Click here for his hompage for more pics and details.

India train derails, killing 100

One hundred people have been killed after a passenger train derailed in floods in southern India, railway officials say.

Rescue workers have been searching for people trapped in carriages amid fears the death toll could rise further.

Initial reports suggest an irrigation tank burst, causing a bridge to collapse, derailing seven carriages.

The crash occurred early on Saturday south of Hyderabad, the state capital of Andhra Pradesh.

Heavy rains have killed more than 100 people in south India this week.

Holidaymakers

The Delta Express crashed near the town of Veligonda in Nalgonda district, about 30km (18 miles) south of Hyderabad.

Seven of the 14 coaches and the engine of the train were derailed and at least three coaches fell into the flood waters.

Divers from the air force and navy used blow torches to cut through the wreckage to free the scores of people still feared trapped. Some survivors were clinging to luggage racks and ceiling fans.

India's state-run railway system carries more than 13m passengers a day.

It has one of the world's largest rail networks, but also a poor safety record.

About 300 rail accidents are reported every year, resulting in a high number of casualties.

Source: Train News

Wiring your model railroad track

To read this great article with pictures click here
-albert williamson


Model railroader Pam Lindsey show how to wire track.

Materials:

HO-scale transformer
Power rail joiners
Rail nippers
Wire strippers
Flathead screwdriver
Eraser-type track-cleaning tool
Power drill, with 1" and 1/4" bits
8" two-part wire
Safety glasses
Soldering iron and solder

1. Position a transformer at any corner of your layout, in a spot where you don't plan to build anything. Be sure it's close to the track but not close enough to interfere with the operation of the train. The transformer is positioned close to the track to minimize exposed wires. It's important to make sure there's enough room between the power pack and the track so that the power-supply cord doesn't interfere with the train's smooth operation.

2. Drill two holes with a 1/4" bit -- on one side of the track, next to the rail, and between the ties, directly across from the transformer box. Drill through the cork rail bed, the insulation board and the plywood to create a hole so the wires can be run under the board and out of sight.

3. Using a hobby knife, cut a 2" by 2" square from the insulation board down to the plywood, approximately 2" behind the transformer. Remove and discard the square of insulation.

4. Using a 1" bit, drill two holes side by side and overlapping through the plywood in the area exposed when the 2" by 2" piece of insulation was removed (figure A). The hole must be large enough to accommodate the power-supply cord so it can be dropped through the hole and under the table.

5. Take approximately 8" of flexible two-part wire, and pull the wires apart. Do not remove the plastic covering on the wires. Feed one wire through one of the holes drilled beside the track in step 2, keeping approximately 1 1/2" of wire above the table. Repeat with the second wire on the other side of the track (figure B).

6. Use wire strippers to remove approximately 1/2" of the plastic coating at the end of each of the wires that remain above the table. With a soldering iron and solder, touch the side of the rail approximately two railroad ties away from the spot where the wire comes up through the holes in the table (figure C), and leave a small drop of solder on the side of the rail. Solder on the outside of the rail, and don't leave solder on the top of the rail, as it would make the train derail.

7. Touch the solder and the soldering iron to the stripped end of each wire, leaving a small drop of solder on each wire. Turn the wire horizontal with the rail, and join the wire and the rail (figure D) with the soldering iron, making sure the wire is even with the rail. Repeat the process on the other side of the rail, using the second stripped wire.

8. Now you'll need to attach the other ends of the wires to the back of the transformer box. Bring the wires from under the table through the hole you created in it. Use wire strippers to remove approximately 1/2" of the plastic covering from the end of each wire. Twist the individual strands from each exposed wire (figure E) over each other. Bend the end of each wire to create a small hook, which will make it easier to place the wire on the back of the transformer. Position each hook so it's facing the direction in which the screw rotates when tightened. With wire wrapped around each screw, under the head, tighten the screws (figure F) at the spot marked "variable DC." Transformers vary greatly, so make sure to read the directions in the owner's manual.

9. Run the power-supply cord from the back of the transformer through the hole in the table (figure G). Before plugging in the power supply, use an eraser-type track cleaner to remove any solder or particles that may have gotten on the track . Brush the track cleaner back and forth along the track a few times, making sure to follow the rails.

10. Plug the power supply into a standard household outlet, and test the track with the first run of your engine (figure H).

Adding Ballast To Your Track For Realism

I've posted a few tips both by myself and aticles by others over time. Yet this one by Kent McBee is nice and simple. Making your model trains realistic is half the fun! Enjoy this article.
-Albert Williamson (ultimateguidetomodeltrains.com)

Materials:

HO-scale ballast
12 ounce plastic or StyrofoamB. cup
Plastic spoon
Small spray bottle
White glue
Water
Liquid detergent
Small school paintbrush
1" paintbrush

1. Fill a spray bottle with water and two drops of liquid detergent, and shake well. Remove the cap from a bottle of glue. Pour half the glue into a resealable container such as a clean margarine tub, cover, and set aside. Refill the half-empty glue bottle with water and two drops of liquid detergent, replace the closed cap, and shake until mixed. This is "ballast mix" glue. Set the mixture aside.

2. Pour ballast into the plastic cup. Using a plastic spoon, carefully apply ballast to the track between the rails and along both sides of the track, generously covering everything but the rails.

3. Shape the ballast to the contours of the cork roadbed with the paintbrushes, gently brushing ballast between the ties and covering the entire roadbed (figure S). Shape the ballast on both sides of the track, covering the entire roadbed.

4. Use a spray bottle to spritz the ballast with the water/detergent mixture. Don't spray the ballast directly: instead, spritz to create a rain-shower effect. This will help the glue mixture soak in.

5. Run a generous bead of ballast-mix glue down the center of the track, between the rails. Then squeeze the glue mixture onto the ballast on both sides of the track. Depending on the amount of ballast you've used, you may need to repeat this procedure to glue all the ballast in place. Allow the glue mixture to dry for at least 12 hours before repeating.

6. After the ballast is dry, run a fingernail along the inside of the track to remove any ballast that may have gotten stuck there. Make certain the top of the rails is free of ballast.

7. Model railroaders recommend purchasing an engine and the largest car you plan to run on the track before building the layout. Once you have these cars, determine whether you can run them on your layout without derailing them.

Train sounds!

Steam and Diesel. Downloadable free train sounds here.

Posted by albert williamson

Multiple levels always adds a nice extra dimension to a model railroad. If you're designing a new layout, why not consider it?

Designing a Model Train Layout

Planning and design are very important in model trains. After all, once the track is in place, the train must run on it! It sounds obvious, yet it is an area many people don't spend enough time on and later regret. Get it right by following these simple tips!

-Albert williamson


It's wise to plan your layout even before laying the track. Using a black marker, begin by drawing the main components of the layout on the insulation board (figure I). There's no need to create elaborate renderings -- just sketch the location of mountains, lakes, rivers, buildings, roads and other major components (figure J). Be creative but not too ambitious: you'll have to build or buy everything you add to the layout.

Our layout was designed to have a 1950s theme and includes a downtown with numerous buildings, a mountain and quarry, a tunnel, a lake, a bridge, two industrial structures and a home. It features two turnouts and two spurs. source

How to assemble a freight car for your model train set

Posted by Albert Williamson



Model railroader Kent McBee explain how to assemble a freight car, using a readily available shake-the-box kit. To read this nice list of steps, with pictures click here


Materials:

Shake-the-box freight-car kit
Plastic modelers' glue with extended needle tip
Hobby knife
6" x 6" x 1" scrap piece of wood
Flathead screwdriver

1. Using a hobby knife and a scrap piece of wood, begin by cutting the small plastic washers off the sprue, or plastic framework (figure H). Carefully trim each piece as closely as possible to create a smooth, finished piece. Cut and trim pieces as needed to construct the model. This will eliminate misplacing small pieces you will need later.

2. Remove the rectangular metal weights, which come in the plastic equipment bag found with the kit. Place them on the bottom of the freight car's undercarriage ( figure I), over the small posts found at either end of the undercarriage. Carefully put modelers' glue on the peg. Take one of the washers cut from the sprue, and place it over the metal weight and onto the peg to hold the weight in place ( figure J). Perform this step at both ends of the undercarriage.

3. After the washers have dried in place, snap the undercarriage onto the freight car. You won't need to use glue: the two pieces will fit tightly together without it.

4. Following the kit's instructions, snap the detail pieces into place. Closely follow directions, as some pieces must be glued and others will be snapped into place. Use glue sparingly for a clean, realistic finish.

5. Remove the two horn-hooked couplers and screws from the equipment bag (figure K). Place the coupler in position on the bottom end of the freight car, making sure the horn is in the down (toward the track) position (figure L). Put the coupler on the peg found underneath and at the end of the car, and place the cover plate over the coupler. Screw the cover plate in place with a flathead screwdriver (figure M). Don't glue this piece, as that would interfere with the movement of the coupler, and don't overtighten the screw. Once the screw is in place, check the coupler for free movement.

6. Trucks are what model railroaders call the wheels on the cars. Complete the trucks by carefully snapping the sets of wheels into the frame (figure N). Check to make sure the wheels rotate freely. Place the completed truck on the bottom of the freight car, and screw it into place. The screw should be tightened to the point where it is recessed but not overtightened (figure O). Make sure the truck has free movement in all directions so the car can move smoothly around corners. Repeat the process at the other end of the railcar.

Expert Tips and Finishing Touches

Keep the track free of hair and dirt particles that might get into the engine. Track-cleaning supplies may be purchased at any hobby shop that sells model railroads.

Details and customization, including building scenes from scratch, make a layout truly unique (figure P). Create scenes around the layout that mirror real life. The layout will feel and look more authentic.

Start with a hand-drawn layout (figure Q), and build mountains, tunnels, lakes, towns, industrial parks, quarries, roads, bridges, railroad tracks, unique scenes and anything else you wish to include. Put on your conductor's cap, start the engine and have fun.

Designing the Town for your model railroad

Model railroader Jim Davis offer tips on designing a believable town plan. It's important to think about the details to really capture the time period as well as the realistic look you are after. The best model railroads when viewed make you feel you are looking a at a real small town (at least they have that effect on me!).

To read more about thinking about the details etc, be sure to read my model train secrets book, "The Ultimate Guide To Model Trains" here.
-Albert Williamson.


To read this article with pictures click here
Choose buildings and structures that match the era you've selected for your layout.

If you need ideas, visit a hobby shop to view the many kits available. The variety is almost endless.

As you build kits for your layout, be creative and personalize your structures. It's easy, for example, to create a vine growing down the side of a building. Apply white glue in a vining pattern down the side of the building and use tweezers to apply landscaping material to the glue (figure Q).

Create a downtown, manufacturing areas and neighborhoods as you like, keeping in mind realism and authenticity. Detail is the key to a believable layout (figure R).

If you like, you can keep your town up all night by using working miniature lighting throughout the layout (figure S).

Building Roads for your model train set

Model railroader Kent McBee explains how to make authentic-looking roadways. This is a different method than what I discuss in my book "The Ultimate Guide To Model Trains". For most people though, this method may be easier.

-Albert Williamson


To read this article with pictures click here
Materials:

Two sheets of black posterboard
Six to eight scraps of cork roadbed
White glue
Pencil
Ruler with HO scale or a standard ruler
Scissors
Hobby knife
One package 1/16" yellow auto pinstriping
One package 1/16" white auto pinstriping

1. If you don't have a HO-scale ruler, a standard ruler will work. To convert a standard ruler to HO, or 1/87th, scale, remember that 1/8" on a standard ruler approximates 1' in HO scale. Cut the posterboard roadways 24' wide in HO scale (3" on a standard ruler).

2. Where the road crosses the railroad track, use leftover cork rail bed to build up the ramp of the roadway to the track (figure J). Trim the pieces to size, and secure them to the insulation board with white glue.

3. Next, prepare the roadway to fit the track. If you're placing a roadway to cross the track at a curve, you must curve the edge of the road to match the curve in the track. To do so, place the edge of the roadway over the rail of the track you're trying the match, and use your finger to score or crease the posterboard along the curve of the track (figure K). Use this guide to cut a perfectly matched curve in the road.

4. Cut the roadway to the correct length. Generously cover the insulation board and cork roadbed with white glue and press the road in place. Place something relatively heavy, such as a small book, on the road to keep it in place while the glue dries.

5. After laying roadway on both sides of the track, you need to cover the space between the rails to give the layout an authentic look. Begin with a section of posterboard road cut to the proper width, and line it up with the roads on either side of the track. Place the piece of roadway on top of the rails, and using the creasing technique described in step 3, crease the posterboard over both rails to create a roadway filler for the section of the track between the rails (figure L). Cut out the roadway to fit between the rails, making certain to cut on the inside of the creases so the roadway fits nicely but doesn't interfere with the movement of the train. Use white glue to secure the piece between the rails (figure M).

6. Lay and glue the rest of the roadway onto the insulation board, according to your drawing. When you come to a curve in the road, it's easier to use straight pieces of posterboard to simulate a curve than to cut a curve and maintain the correct road width. As the road begins to curve, place the next piece of road under the already-laid pieces. Use a pencil to mark where the roadways meet. Cut a clean edge at the marked-off section with scissors, and you'll have a perfectly matched road (figure N). Glue the sections in place with white glue.

7. Use auto pinstripes, available at auto-parts stores, to make the roads look more realistic (figure O). Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and mark the middle of the road in at least two places. Take the ruler, and draw a straight line connecting the marks. You'll put down the white pinstripe along this line (figure P). Think of the roadways you travel every day, and put in crosswalks, school zones, railroad crossings, no-passing zones and other street markings where appropriate. Authenticity is the goal.

Building an authentic model train station step by step

Model railroader Bud German show us how to build an authentic-looking train station. Many so called "snap together" model buildings are anything but simple. These tips should help you.

Click Here for the article with pictures.

-Albert Williamson, author of
Ultimateguidetomodeltrains.com




Materials:

Prepainted snap-together depot model kit
Liquid plastic cement
Small detail paintbrush
Rail nippers
Tweezers
India ink
Rubbing alcohol
Small container with lid -- a clean baby-food jar is ideal

1. Open the model depot kit and thoroughly read the instructions. With rail nippers, carefully remove the kit pieces from the sprue, the plastic framework that holds them together (figure A). Clip as close as possible to each model piece.

2. You'll use liquid cement and a detail paintbrush to join the pieces of the depot. As you follow the directions for building the model, spread liquid cement on the joints of both pieces you're connecting.

3. Whenever you create a corner during construction, you need to "affix" it. To do so, load the detail brush with liquid cement, and touch inside the top of the corner with the brush (figure B). Liquid cement will run down the inside of the joint and "affix" the corner.

4. Use the same technique when putting windows in place. Position the window in the frame, place the clear-plastic piece, representing the glass, on the inside of the window, and lay the section flat on your work surface. Using a paintbrush loaded with liquid cement, touch each corner of the window (figure C). The cement will run around the joint between the frame and the window and secure the "glass" at the same time. This technique prevents liquid cement from smearing onto the glass and creating foggy windows. After the window is dry, position the frame in place on the structure. Use the back of a hobby knife to ensure that the pieces are tightly in place (figure D).

5. Complete the depot roof and set it aside.

6. Before putting on the roof, you'll need to put the detail pieces in place (figure E). Some of them are located at your discretion; others, such as the benches, have assigned locations. Follow the kit instructions.

7. To glue the roof in place, set it on top of the completed depot without applying any liquid cement. Holding the two pieces together, turn the entire structure upside down, and glue the pieces together from the inside (figure F). Run a paintbrush loaded with liquid cement along the joint between the roof and the depot.

8. Our model depot has decorative braces between the roof and the outside of the building. If yours is similar, snap the decorative pieces into place, using tweezers (figure G), and glue them on from the inside of the model.

9. Make your depot look authentic by giving it a weathered appearance. Create a weathering mixture by combining 8 to 10 drops of India ink and 1 ounce of alcohol in a clean baby-food jar. Replace the lid, and gently shake until mixed. Generously spread the mixture on all parts of the depot, using a clean paintbrush (figure H). Spread the mixture over the structure completely (figure I) until you achieve the desired look. The mixture may look a little dark in some places, but it will dry slightly lighter.

Adding a Bridge to your model railroad!

This great model train articel with Jay Caplan explains how to add a bridge to a layout. To read it with pictures, click here.

Materials:

9" plate-girder bridge with built-in track
Four rail joiners
Hobby knife
Rail nippers
Hobby saw
Black marker

1. Place the bridge on the top of the track precisely where you want it to be located. Center the bridge at the point where the lake crosses under the track, placing it so the ends of the bridge and the lake shore are equidistant on each side (figure K).

2. Hold the bridge in place. Mark the insulation board where the ends of the bridge meet the track (figure L). The marks indicate where the regular track must be removed and the bridge track put in place. Set the bridge aside.

3. Using rail nippers, cut the track on both rails at the exact location where you marked the ends of the bridge (figure M). Rail nippers can be used to create ends of two different types. One side of the nippers cuts a beveled edge; the other side, a straight edge. Use the straight side of the nippers to cut straight edges so the joint will be tight. Cut all four rails, and remove the section of track to make way for the bridge track. Leave the roadbed in place. If you have trouble removing the glued-down track from the roadbed, carefully insert a hobby saw between the track and the roadbed and cut off the track (figure N). Don't throw the track away: you may use it later.

4. Use a hobby saw to remove the roadbed at both ends, cutting through it approximately 3/4" in from the end of the track toward the lake (figure O). It's important to leave 3/4" of roadbed, which will support the end of the bridge once it's connected to the rest of the track. Remove the cut section of roadbed from the insulation board to create an open space under the bridge.

5. Now remove the lake. Using a hobby knife, cut into the insulation board, following the lines drawn previously for the lake. Remove the lake-shaped piece of insulation board (figure P), and save it for future construction.

6. To join the bridge to the track, remove the small plastic connection between the rail and the tie (figure Q). Use rail nippers to clip the tiny piece holding the rail to the tie, but don't remove the tie. After removing the connection, you'll use a rail joiner to make a clean connection between the bridge and the track rails.

7. To connect the bridge track to the track on the roadbed, insert a rail joiner at each rail at both ends of the bridge. Join the bridge to the roadbed track at one end of the lake, gently working the rail joiner onto the track rail. To complete the circuit, fit the other end of the bridge to the track in the same manner. Gently lift the track to create enough space to angle the bridge rail joiners onto the rail (figure R). This completes the circuit: the train can now run across the bridge.

Getting started right in model trains!

Here's the next one in our series of How To Model Train articles. Another great one with pictures. To read it with pictures click here.

Model railroading has been popular for almost half a century. With today's readily available modern materials, some say the hobby is in its golden age. Read on to find out how to get started right!
-Albert.




Building a Base Table for Your Layout


A sturdy walk-around base table is the best foundation you can give a model-railroad layout. Model railroaders Dave and Alex Caplan explain the basics.

Materials:

10 pieces 1" x 3" x 8' pine, #2 grade
Three pieces 1" x 2" x 8' pine, #1 grade
Four pieces 1" x 3" x 6' pine, #1 grade
Two pieces 1" x 4" x 10' pine, #1 grade
Two pieces 1" x 4" x 6' pine, #1 grade (for end sides of table)
1/4" x 4' x 8' sheet of plywood
#6-size 1 1/4" Phillips-head screws
Power drill
Power screwdriver or combination drill/screwdriver
Hand saw or power saw
Paint or stain

1.

The outer dimensions of this table will be 8' long by 4' wide. Begin by selecting two 1" by 3" by 8' pieces of #2-grade pine for the 8' outer edges. Next, select four 1" by 3" by 8' pieces of #2-grade pine for outer frame width and inner support pieces. These four 8' lengths should be cut into seven 46 1/2 " pieces -- for the five inner pieces and the two outer (leaving one extra length). Drill holes in the ends of the 8' lengths and attach a 46 1/2" piece to each end, screwing it into place. Working from the outside in, screw a 46 1/2" piece 17" from the end; repeat for other end. Screw another 46 1/2" length into place 17" from the last one, and repeat for other end. Finally, the two center pieces -- which will provide the greatest support -- should be measured and screwed into place at approximately 11 3/8" from the most recently placed two pieces.

Tip: When cutting the inner cross supports, the 17" pieces can range from 17" to 17 1/4". Measure and cut pieces accordingly. A total of six 17" cross supports and three 11 3/8" cross supports are needed. Screw these cross supports in place to support the 46 1/2" lengths (figure A). Countersink screw holes for a smooth, finished look.

2. Cut four pieces of 1" by 3" by 6' #1-grade pine to eight 36" pieces to create the legs. The legs are built by placing two pieces of cut pine perpendicular at the edges (figure B), in an L shape. Secure the boards with wood screws approximately 6" apart. Countersink the screws, and fill with wood putty, then sand the legs to a smooth finish. The legs are now ready to be stained or painted, as you like.

3. Attach the legs inside the corners with five 1 1/4" screws, securing the legs on the 4' and 8' sides. Make sure the tops of the legs are flush with the top edge of the frame so the plywood will lie flat on the frame. Screw each of the four legs to the base table framework at the four corners. Attach cross supports of 1" by 2" by 93" pine from the inside bottom of the 8' frame to the side of the leg approximately 18" above the floor with one 1 1/4" screw on each end. Follow these steps on both sides of the table. Attach cross supports of 1" by 2" by 45" pine from the inside bottom of the 4' frame to the other side of the leg approximately 18" from the floor. This will give the table stability and strength. Measure the exact length of the 8' side of the table, and cut a piece of 1" by 4" by 10' pine to the measurement. Repeat for the 4' side of the table. Finish the table by attaching the cut pieces of 1" by 4" by 10' pine with 1 1/4" screws. If you want a smooth finish for painting or staining, countersink the holes, and fill with wood plugs or wood putty. Paint or stain the outer frame to match the legs.

4. Place a 4' by 8' by 1/4" sheet of plywood on the completed frame. Drill countersunk pilot holes around the outside edge of the plywood, making certain to drill into the frame (figure C). Secure the plywood to the frame with screws at approximately 10" intervals, countersinking the screws to create a smooth surface for the train.

Laying the Groundwork and Making a Track Plan

Proper preparation of your layout will facilitate smooth operation of the train. Model railroaders Bud German and Kent McBee explain proper preparation techniques.

Materials:

4' x 8' sheet of residential insulation foam board
Low-temperature glue gun and glue sticks
8 1/2" x 11" sheet of notebook paper
Black marker
Pencil
Straightedge or wooden yardstick
Power drill
Tape measure
Piece of switch track

1. Drill a hole large enough for a pencil to pass through 2" from one end of the straightedge or yardstick. Measuring from the inside edge of the hole, use a marker to mark spots at 18", 20" and 22". Drill holes at the marks large enough for the marker tip to pass through. (The measurements represent the most common radiuses used in model railroading. Radius is always measured from the center point of the lines, between the rails.) Set the straightedge or yardstick aside.

2. Place a 4' by 8' piece of StyrofoamB. insulation board on top of the plywood table, but don't secure it to the table. If you make a mistake, you'll be able to replace the inexpensive foam board without replacing the plywood. Draw a large oval on an 8 1/2" by 11" piece of notebook paper. To make the layout look more realistic, draw industrial spurs -- sections of track that extend off the main track to give rail access to industrial plants and loading areas (figure D) -- at each end of the oval. And in case you'd like to add to the layout in future, draw additional spurs at each end of the completed oval (figure E).

3. To transfer the hand-drawn layout to the foam board, you must find the focal point at each end of the table. Measure and mark 24" in from the 4' end of the table. Now measure in 24" from the 8' side of the table, and make a mark to intersect with the first mark. The spot at which the two points intersect is the focal point .

4. Place a pencil through the first hole drilled in the straightedge, and put the pencil on the focal point, holding it securely in place. Place a marker through the drilled hole at the 22" mark (figure F), and, using the straightedge as a compass, draw a half-circle with the marker (figure G). Repeat these steps at the other end of the table.

5. Use the straightedge and marker to connect the half-circles with straight lines to create a large oval on the foam board. The lines don't have to be precise, but the radius of the circle must be consistent so the train will track properly. Use the straightedge to extend the side lines past the edge of the half-circle at each end on opposite sides, as with the hand drawing.

6. Place a piece of switch track at every point where the track splits -- where one line completes the oval and another creates a spur. Use a marker to mark the center line of all pieces of track (figure H).

7. Moving about 9" down the track, toward the center of the straight side lines, use the piece of switch track to mark the site of the industrial spurs. Using the piece of switch track as a guide (figure I), draw the spur lines with a black marker. Precision isn't vital -- just draw the line in a tighter radius into the oval.

8. Use a low-temperature glue gun to apply a generous bead of glue around the outside edge of the table. Press the foam board firmly to the plywood, and give the glue a minute to set up.

Laying the Roadbed

Laying a roadbed correctly is vital for the smooth operation of your train. Model railroader Jim Davis explain how.

Materials:

10 pieces 36" HO-scale cork roadbed
Hobby saw
Hobby knife
Low-temperature glue gun and glue sticks

1. Cork roadbed is scored and breaks readily. Bend and split a 36" piece of roadbed in half lengthwise to create two thinner pieces (figure J). The center split will create two opposing beveled edges, which, when turned over, create the elevated edges of a roadbed (figure K). By placing the pieces side by side, with the beveled edges out, you can create the roadbed needed for an HO-scale train and have a perfect center line with which to line up the track.

2. It's important to make the roadbed as flat and smooth as possible. Make sure it doesn't begin or end at a joint -- for example, at the switches or where two tracks come together (figure L). Always stagger the ends of the roadbed halves so the joints don't run across the entire roadbed.

3. To hold the roadbed in place, squeeze a bead of glue from a low-temperature glue gun along the center line drawn on the foam board. Secure half of the roadbed carefully along that line. Continue along the curved lines previously drawn, and glue the roadbed on both sides of the center line until you've completed all the lines.

4. After you've laid the roadbed down the spur and around the curve of the oval, you will have created a gap at the V, or switch location. The space must be filled with roadbed. Begin by placing a piece of roadbed over the gap at the switch (figure M). Make certain to follow the curve. Using a hobby saw, score the roadbed using the straight edge of the spur roadbed as a guide. After beginning the cut, move the roadbed piece to a convenient spot to complete the cut with a hobby knife. The resulting piece will fill the gap perfectly (figure N). Glue the piece in place.

5. Complete the entire oval, the spurs and the sidings, using these techniques ( figure O).

Laying Track


Once you begin laying track, the layout begins to look more like a railroad. Model railroader Jim Davis describes the process.

Materials:

10 pieces 36" HO-scale flex track
Four HO-scale switches
One package rail joiners
Rail nippers
Low-temperature glue gun and glue sticks
Push pins

1. Take a rail joiner from the package (figure P) and break off one section. Insert the rail joiner into the end of the flex track (figure Q). Rail joiners keep the rails in line and carry the electrical current needed to power the engine.

2. If there is not enough exposed rail at the end of the track to insert the rail joiner, take rail nippers and loosen the last tie on the end of the flex track. Using your fingers, carefully remove the loosened tie (figure R) to expose more rail to be connected with a rail joiner. Set aside the removed ties.

3. Insert rail joiners, and join the flex track with the switch track. Place the switch on the roadbed at the previously marked location (figure S), and center the flex track over the roadbed's center line.

4. Using a glue gun, tack the switch at the marked location and glue the flex track in place, making sure to center the track over the center line in the roadbed, paying particular attention to centering the track at the curves. Remember to prepare each length of track by removing the last tie at each end. If you don't have an extra pair of hands to help you hold the track in place while the glue dries, use push pins to secure the track to the roadbed while the glue sets up.

5. As the track begins to curve, one rail extends further than the other because of the curve. Using rail nippers (figure T), even the rails before connecting the next piece of track and gluing it down. Continue until the entire track is laid.

6. As you finish laying the track, you'll see gaps at the ties where you've joined rails (figure U). Take the ties you previously removed from each end of the flex track, and slide them under the rails to complete the line.

Build a Train Shed for Your Passenger Terminal

On page 60 in the October 2005 issue of CLASSIC TOY TRAINS, Bill Hildebrand explained how to build a large terminal building for your O gauge layout. But the actual building is only part of a terminal complex. Whether it’s a terminal (with stub tracks ending next to it), or a station (with through tracks beside it), there’s almost always a train shed connected to the terminal building to shelter passengers.

As with terminal buildings, there are few commercial train sheds on the market. However, the materials and construction techniques described in Bill's great article will help you to construct a train shed for your particular layout space and configuration.

Build a Train Shed for Your Passenger Terminal- CLICK HERE For the article

Creating Landscape step by step with pictures

Here's another great article, to see the pictures click HERE

Model railroader Pamela Lindsey demonstrate how to create a realistic landscape.

Materials:

One package plastic tree forms
Assortment of colored foam tree foliage
Small bunch of green dried flowers
Florists' wire
Tube of all-purpose white caulk
Tube of plastic modeler's glue
Brown acrylic paint
Small detail paintbrush

1. Generously spread plastic modelers' glue on a few branches of a tree form. Press a small cluster of colored foam tree foliage onto the glue (figure A). Cover the other branches in the same manner, making sure to cover both sides of the tree. You do not have to cover every branch, as the goal is a tree that looks realistic -- not perfect. Fill in with darker foliage to give the tree depth and realism.

2. Another way to create a tree is to use foliage available from a local craft store. Separate the individual stems of the foliage from the main stem, and group the pieces together. Carefully wrap the stems together with florists' wire.

3. Using all-purpose white caulk, cover the wire and stems up to the base of the foliage (figure B). After the caulk dries thoroughly, paint the newly created tree trunk with brown acrylic paint. Snip off the bottom end of the trunk to create a clean base, and the tree is ready to be placed in the layout.

Lay Down Grass and Gravel

Model railroaders Pamela Lindsey and Kent McBee explain how to landscape easily and effectively.

Materials:

Assortment of colored foam tree foliage
Assortment of groundcovers
Coarse turf
Ballast
Pencil
White glue
1" paintbrush
Plastic shaker jugs

1. Pull off small bushlike clumps of the same kind of foliage used to create the trees, and secure them with white glue (figure C). Place the foliage in a casual, creative way, keeping in mind where foliage grows naturally. You can put foliage almost anywhere, as white glue will securely hold this porous material.

2. Spread white glue over the surface to be covered, using a paintbrush dipped in water. Lightly shake groundcover from a sprinkle container over the wet glue (figure D). Sprinkle more than one color and random coarse turf for a truly realistic touch. Continue to cover the upper surfaces of the mountain where dirt and grass would naturally appear. Be creative.

3. To insert trees into the mountain, poke holes into the firmly dried plaster cloth with a sharpened pencil (figure E). Put a drop of glue in each hole, and insert a tree. This step is only necessary where trees are applied to plaster cloth. Trees may be readily pushed into the insulation foam used for the base layout.

4. Step back from time to time and look at the overall effect of the landscape so you can determine what's needed. Landscaping is almost foolproof because you can always cover up any mistakes and start again.

5. To complete the application of groundcover, use white glue and a paintbrush and spread glue in workable sections on the layout. Sprinkle groundcover, using more than one color. Sometimes it is easier to apply the material to large areas with your fingers. Place shrubs and rough turf in random patterns to create a realistic landscape.

6. To place gravel in appropriate places, spread white glue around the markings for the buildings on the insulation board. Make sure to cover the outline of a building in case the structure's size has been misjudged (figure F). This will ensure a neat fit between the gravel and the edge of the building so no insulation board shows. Use fine ballast to simulate gravel, and cover the glued area.

7. Use a pencil to mark the location of a dirt road (figure G). Use white glue and a paintbrush dipped in water to spread glue within the penciled lines. Shake a layer of dirt-colored groundcover over the glue to create the road. Use your fingers to move the excess groundcover around, overlapping the groundcover with other landscaping so the insulation board won't show. Use a darker ground cover to simulate tire tracks down the dirt road.

8. Remember to finish the outside edges of the layout. Repeat the gluing and groundcover-application process along the edge, and add shrubbery to create a realistic layout. Strategically place clumps of colored foam foliage around the layout to cover joints, holes or bare places.

Ballast: How to lay rock so your model trains will roll

Like a fine paint job on a locomotive, ballast is the finish coat on your track. It covers the many blemishes of roadbed construction, such as joints, shims, screws, and wire holes. More importantly, if done properly ballast adds a lot of polish to a layout.

Ballasting is usually the last finish work I do on any given section of the railroad. I like to at least add the basic scenery adjacent to the track to be ballasted, as there’s nothing worse than dropping a glob of white scenery plaster or paint on track once it’s ballasted. My layout happens to be HO scale, but these ideas apply regardless of scale.

Read this great article by Paul J. Dolkos HERE

Creating Lakes step by step with pictures

This is the 2nd article in our series. Enjoy!
Albert.

To see the pictures click here (its the bottom half of the page)



Creating a Lake

Model railroader Dave Caplan explains how to create realistic-looking lakes.

Materials:

Plaster cloth
Shoe-box-size container that will hold water
Water
Acrylic paints in dark greens and blues
Sand-colored spray paint
8 ounces clear liquid polyurethane epoxy
White glue
Modelers' grass
Modelers' earth
Foliage in various shapes and textures
Duct tape
Scrap piece of Styrofoam board
Hobby knife
1" paintbrush

1. The space for the lake was cut out when the bridge was installed. If you haven't yet removed it, use a hobby knife to cut into the insulation board along the lines drawn to mark the lake, and remove the Styrofoam down to the plywood. If the bridge is already in place, remove it and set it aside. Contour the edge of the lake with the hobby knife to create a shoreline. This will add realistic-looking detail (figure I).

2. Use leftover pieces of Styrofoam and a glue gun to create an island in the middle of the lake (figure J). Be as creative as you like (figure K).

3. Spread moistened plaster cloth, prepared as you did for the mountain, over the edge of the lake (figure L) to create a rugged shoreline. Place plaster cloth over the island, using a paintbrush dipped in water to smooth out the edges and eliminate air bubbles. Cover the bottom and sides of the lake, including the slopes up to the base of the track (figure M). Allow the lake to dry overnight.

4. Apply a light coat of sand-colored spray paint to the island and the shoreline of the lake (figure N).

5. Use a variety of blue and green acrylic paints to create realistic-looking water (figure O). Apply green tones to the shallow shoreline area of the lake and deeper blue tones in the deeper center of the lake (figure P). Use a paintbrush to blend the paints. Allow the colors to dry thoroughly.

6. Once the lake dries, add some landscaping. Use white glue to create a path along the lakeshore. Sprinkle modelers' earth on the path to cover the glue completely. Repeat the process with strips of grass created with white glue and modelers' grass sprinkled in place (figure Q). Decorate the island in the same manner. Using white glue, add clumps of shrubbery and trees.

7. Seal the opening at the edge of the lake -- the edge of the layout -- with duct tape and a scrap piece of Styrofoam (figure R) to prevent polyurethane (used in step 8) from running off the side of the layout.

8. Pour clear liquid polyurethane epoxy into the lakebed (figure S), and spread it around with a plastic spoon or knife to completely cover the area. The epoxy will dry clear so the colors previously painted will show through, creating a very realistic-looking lake (figure T).

Making Mountains step by step

From time to time a really excellent article surfaces in the world of model trains. This part one in a series of How To articles with pictures I'll be posting over the next little while.

Model mountains can be built in numerous ways -- from the old-fashioned newspaper method to casting them in molds. Unfortunately, using the newspaper method can create a fire hazard. Here's a great way to do it! Enjoy, Albert.

For all the pictures click here

Making a Mountain

Model railroader Jay Caplan explains how simple it is to build a mountain.

Materials:

2' x 4' piece of StyrofoamB. insulation board
Two 3" pieces of scrap foam board, purchased or found in packing material
Styrofoam packing "peanuts"
Two HO-scale portals
Low-temperature glue gun and glue sticks
One package plaster cloth
1" paintbrush
Scissors
Hobby saw
Shoe-box-size or larger container that will hold water
Water
Light earth-toned spray paint
Dirt-colored spray paint
Grass-colored spray paint
Black marker

1. Locate the entrance to and exit from the mountain on the layout. These spots mark the location of portals for the tunnel (figure A). The portals indicate where the tunnel begins and ends as the mountain is built around them. You won't glue the portals in place until the mountain is complete.


2. Use scraps of insulation board to build a support for the portals. The scraps can be any size or shape, as long as they fit the space designated for the mountain and don't interfere with the train's operation. Using a low-temperature glue gun, glue the pieces of insulation in place to begin building the mountain. Stagger the pieces to create a realistic, rugged-looking shape. Use a portal as a guide to gauge the space that must be left open for the train to clear the sides of the mountain. Use a hobby saw to cut blocks of insulation foam to fit the space allotted to the mountain (figure B). The mountain must be at least as tall as the top of the portal for the train to clear. Continue to glue and build up the front of the mountain until the front is complete.

3. Build the back of the mountain from 3" pieces of scrap Styrofoam packing material. Use a hobby knife to cut the pieces to fit the layout board and fit around the portals. Secure the pieces with a glue gun (figure C).

4. Put the top on the mountain to enclose the tunnel and create a base from which to build up the mountain. Clear the track of obstructions that might interfere with the movement of the train through the tunnel. Place a piece of Styrofoam insulation large enough to cover the entire mountain on top of the mountain's base. Use a hobby saw to remove unnecessary parts of the board until you get close to the outline of the mountain. Hold the top of the mountain in place, and use a black marker to trace the contour of the mountain's base up under the piece forming the top of the mountain (figure D). After marking the curve, turn the top over and cut along the marked line with a hobby saw, creating a perfect match with the base of the mountain. Glue the mountaintop in place.

5. Now build up the top of the mountain by gluing scraps of Styrofoam insulation as desired (figure E). Use pieces of various sizes to create contours, and use a hobby saw to cut contours into the mountain (figure F). Glue on packing peanuts to create boulders and rugged contours. Complete the mountaintop as desired.

6. Fill the shoebox-size container half full of water. Using scissors, cut a piece of plaster cloth about 4" long. Let it soak in the water for about 5 seconds (figure G). Drag the cloth strip along the side of the container to eliminate excess water. Place the wet plaster cloth over the Styrofoam sides of the mountain, molding the cloth to the mountain with your fingers. Dip a 1" paintbrush into the water, and brush the wet plaster cloth to eliminate bumps and air bubbles. Repeat the process until the entire mountain is covered. Let the mountain dry overnight.

7. Finish the mountain by spray-painting it with earth-toned paints. If the room is not well ventilated, wear a mask. Use a light earth tone for the base, applying the paint in light, sweeping motions. Use a darker color to create and color darker patches of rock and soil. Use green paint to simulate grass growing on flat surfaces. Later you'll add trees and shrubs to give the mountain a more believable look (figure H).

Can track be ballasted after it is installed?

By all means, for added realism, ballast should be added to your layout. But be forewarned - this is not a simple task. Several good brands of ballast are on the market today and are available at your local hobby dealer. Woodland Scenics makes a very good grade of ballast in various colors and in the proper size suitable for N-scale use (the wrong scale can look very strange, so be careful not to buy HO scale or larger ballast). Spread the ballast evenly between the ties of the track, both between the rails and outside the rails. Use a soft brush to move the ballast off the ties and to spread it evenly between them. Some brands of ballast have the binder (glue) already mixed in while others require a separate application of glue. In either case, use "wet" water to set the glue smoothly into the ballast without moving it. ("Wet" water is created by adding a few drops of liquid detergent to ordinary tap water.) The water, or water-and-glue mixture, should be dripped gently from an eyedropper and when dripped onto the dry ballast it should run into and around the tiny rocks rather than form in a ball on the surface. Do not disturb the ballast until the glue has completely dried. You might want to experiment on a siding until you feel comfortable ballasting the mainlines. After the glue has cured, examine your work and be certain that no ballast has piled up on the inside of the rails. Such a build-up will cause derailments.

Mountains Tip

An easy way to make bridges or mountains for model railroad tables, is to use Rappit plaster molding tape.

Just crumple some newspaper and form into a mountain.

Cut strips of plaster molding cloth and wet in water and form over the crumpled paper.

You can smooth over the wet cloth to make a finished moutain.

You can also use colored sand to give it texture.

Let dry and paint.