nylon

“In just a handful of years, vintage nylons will completely disappear from the face of the earth,” says vintage stocking collector Steve, who also runs Stocking Showcase. And that’s enough motivation for him and others like him.

But aside from the stockings themselves, and perhaps pinups, what is there for collectors to covet in the realm of vintage stockings?

Vintage nylon stockings have a history as long and lovely as their back seams, for it took twelve years and $27 million to create, refine and develop the industrial processes for nylon.

This naturally leaves a paper trail for collectors who desire to document the birth of nylon.

Du Pont chemist Wallace Hume Carothers invented Fiber 66 — or nylon as we now call it — and it made its debut on the lovely legs of Miss Chemistry at the World’s Fair in 1939.

Miss Chemistry emerged from a test tube, a testament to modern science. (She may not have been a test tube baby, but she was a test tube babe!)

This same exhibit of Miss Chemistry and her test tube was shown again at the 1939 Golden Gate Exposition in San Francisco, and the theme was often repeated in advertising as well.

Collectors desire such early photographs and items showing Miss Chemistry, such as the Du Pont publication shown below. Some collectors have even started collecting World’s Fair memorabilia for its connections to nylon’s debut.

Nylons went on sale to the general public in May 15, 1940, aka N-day. In that first year, DuPont sold 64 million pairs of stockings. That year much nylon was used to create the tornado in the movie “The Wizard of Oz.” (I’m sure many a vintage nylon stocking collector would love to get their hands on that tornado!)

Not long after N-Day, “Nylon Mania” ensued. In part because Du Pont spared little expense in promoting nylon, but also because nylon was a thrilling ‘modern marvel’, the product of science. Ads from this time period are plentiful, and pretty to display.

Of course, World War II meant Du Pont would cease its nylon stocking production to meet wartime needs. They produced parachutes, airplane tire cords, and glider tow ropes for the military, and some collectors also seek these items to preserve the integrity of this time period. The nylon stocking shortage created such a demand in the US that women began paying as much as $20 on the black market for stockings which had previously cost just over one dollar. This time is referred to as “Stocking Panic”.

Stocking Panic was so intense that nylon stockings made the new. For example, police in Chicago ruled out robbery as a motive in a murder case just because six pair of nylon stockings (that would be $120 worth of valuable property) had been left at the scene of the crime. Collectors love to get such news clippings.

In August of 1945, a mere eight days after Japan’s surrender, Du Pont announced that it would immediately return to producing nylon stockings. Thus ends “Stocking Panic” — and begins “Nylon Riots”.

The riots began because Du Pont could not make the wartime conversions fast enough to keep up with consumer demands. Nylons once again made newspaper headlines as women, who had been standing in line for hours were turned away without even seeing the stockings, began to fight and riot. Collectors love the headlines, sure, but the photographs are most sought after.

It took until March of 1946 for Du Pont to meet consumer demand and end the “Nylon Riots.” But by then, Du Pont wasn’t using nylon only for fashion hosiery. Now Du Pont’s advertising featured a woman in a nylon dress, and nylon was adopted for use in lingerie and foundation garments. Many vintage nylon stocking collectors willingly accept these ads, and even the garments themselves, into their collections. And why not? Just as stockings do not make the whole outfit, neither are they the entire story.

All black and white photographs courtesy of the Hagley Museum and Library.

When someone says “1950’s slips” do images of vintage crinolines spring to mind?

While those stiff netted petticoats were popular in the 50s’s (and often desired due to the fragile state of netting), for many vintage lingerie collectors, the 50’s slip is far more a tactile, sensual treat…

In the 50’s to 60’s era, Dupont nylon was introduced and became widely used in most lingerie and undergarments. Designers started blending nylon with fine rayon and satin and this is an era when so many incredible silky slips were produced. You also see a lot of fancy lacework, flouncey hemlines, chiffon, imported laceworks, etc.

In the 1950-60s era, there is a ‘wedding lace’ slip which consisted of the incredibly beautiful micro-pleated chiffon and imported lacework.

Slips give an nod to an era of beauty & glamour icons (Who can forget Elizabeth Taylor or Marilyn Monroe in their slips?), yet they continue to beckon today. Physically, slips are intimate items; seen by few, yet they are demur by today’s lingerie standards. Like the glamorous and romantic details of the garments themselves, slips speak of elements which often seem missing from our in-your-face culture.

You might say slips are some of the most flirtatious collectibles around.

All images © Glamour Gurlz

Slips are some of the most popular and sought after garments in vintage lingerie collecting because they combine the details that delight the senses as well as the emotions. Vintage slips offer visual and textural treats: the indulgence of abundant lace and flouncing hemlines, the luxury of real silk, the charm of chiffon, the drama in the drape of bias cut heavy satin, the slip and sheen of high quality nylon…

But by the late 1970s, when women stopped wearing slips & bras and other foundation undergarments as a part of their daily dressing, many manufacturers stopped making these items alltogether. Those that continued to make them opted to play it cost effective and stopped importing French lace and ended investing in expensive fabrics such as high quality blended nylon satin and silks. Of course, now that these delightful unmentionables are no longer made, slips are hot on the collectible market.

Recently, I sat down to talk with Kimberly, a fellow vintage lingerie collector and owner of Glamour Gurlz Vintage Slips, to discuss the allure of vintage slips.

Kimberly, when did you first fall in love with vintage lingerie?

I personally began collecting vintage lingerie and other glamorous vintage ‘dress up’ items when my dear sweet grandmother passed away about 15 years ago. My mother & I had to sort through all of her beautiful & glamorous lingerie, foundations, costume jewelry & clothing, so that we could donate it to charity. As we sorted through her things, we reminisced about watching her sitting at her vanity, clad in girdle, slip, stockings, heels and bullet bra — This was the era when it was an ‘art’ to make yourself as desirable as possible. I remembered how I used to think “I wanna be just like that when I grow up!” And then I thought to myself, “There is no way I can part with such grand memories!”

But still why ‘old’ & not ‘new?’
Lingerie and glamour accessories in today’s market are not the quality product you find in a vintage item. For example: A modern full slip in today’s market usually consists of a basic nylon in black, white or beige or the standard ‘polyester’ satins. Finding one with more than an inch of lacework is almost non-existent.
Slipping into vintage lingerie takes you to a whole new level of sexiness… I honestly believe once anyone owns a piece of vintage lingerie, they will never go back to the modern, flimsy mass produced styles. When you buy vintage, your buying a piece of history, a collectable, one of a kind item.

But, in a nutshell, those who have owned vintage lingerie become addicted…

Do you have a favorite style or time period?

A favorite of mine was introduced to me by a close friend a few years ago… the designer is Saramae Lingerie and was sold by high end department stores from the 40’s through the early 70s.

These are extremely rare pieces of lingerie and very hard to come by, so when I find one I jump on them.

They normally consist of soft silky nylon with a extraordinary 5-10″ imported cut out lacework, backed in a sheer soft pink or contrasting chiffon.

I currently have over 100 in my personal collection by Saramae Lingerie and do not intend to sell them. I collect these as a true collectable piece of history, a rare and unique gem.

(To Be Continued)