The Wild & Woolie Appraisal


As you know, I was very nervous about what to bring to the Plains Art Museum’s Trash or Treasure event. Not only was the event held at a real art museum, but the appraisers were from big auction house Ivey-Selkirk — all the way from Missouri. That was rather intimidating in and of itself to a collector of this and that, who mainly buys on a whim (and with a tight pocketbook), but to be there representing Collectors’ Quest too? That made me feel like I really should have something neat.

I didn’t fear that I’d be one of those people that you see on Antiques Roadshow who believe they have a prehistoric item which turns out to have been made in Mexico last year and then have to mask their disappointment &/or embarrassment — if only because I am constantly under-estimating the value of our stuff. But I didn’t want to look like a complete dodo either. I figured I should bring something I knew nothing about so that I could at least learn a little something… But what?

Less than a week before the event I still had no idea what. Then we went to Georgine’s and there, on the floor, propped against a shelving unit was this rather large art piece.

My Vintage Titanic Woolie

Measuring roughly 18 X 30 inches, the piece is made of a turquoise colored burlap canvas stretched over a wooden frame with thick stands of yarn stitched onto the canvas to create a ship at sea, sinking in flames, and an iceberg. The sky, sea and even some flames are painted on the canvas. Something about it charmed me. I paid $4, brought it home, dubbed it the Titanic Folk Art Piece, and decided that this piece met my criteria. It was surely something I knew nothing about, I wasn’t expecting to hear great things about it, and yet the inexpensive price tag meant I wouldn’t look like a rube.

But that Friday night, as we walked into the VIP event, I felt a bit anxious putting it down next to the impressive pottery pieces, watercolors, antique chairs, and other more familiar items. Perhaps this is why, when speaking with Ed Pauley, president of the Plains Art Museum, I brought up the subject of folk art. We talked about the category of folk art and how every few years the category’s name seems to change, including names such as “Primitives” and “Outsider Art”. Just knowing that the president of a fancy-schmancy art museum saw the value in such art, no matter what its name, and that his museum even has such pieces in it’s collection, made me feel a bit more comfortable. But then, it was time for the appraisals…

All the VIPs stood along one side of the tables, the appraisers on the other.

Awkward silence.

Then one of the appraisers, and Ivey-Selkirk Executive Vice-President, Mark Howald, looked at me and said, “Well, what did you bring?”

The moment of truth had arrived. And I felt as silly as I used to with show and tell in Kindergarten.

“Um, it’s that sad little piece of folk art there,” I said, gesturing.

Trash or Treasure Appraisal Of My Woolie by Mark HowaldHowald put his hand on it and said, “Well, it’s a woolie, you already know that — so tell me what you know about it.”

Inside my head I was saying, “No, I don’t know that,” but instead I said, “Nothing, really. I just got it last Saturday…”

Howald flips the piece over, explaining to all what he’s looking for in this appraisal. While shipping scenes were the most common in woolies, they are also quite desired as well. However, as is often the woolie way, there are no names of either the ship or the artist. At that point I blurted out, “I think it’s the Titanic, what with the iceberg and all.”

Howald replied, “Sure, there’s two stacks, so it could be…” and discusses how the stacks help date the piece as well.

“But the iceberg…” I whined.

“Iceberg?” he said, looking up at me. I point to the white part on the far right.

“Oh, my, I didn’t even see that,” he laughs. “I bet you all saw that right away, but I was wondering what that hand was doing coming up from the water!”

Everyone laughs and Howald moves on to the other aspects of the piece.

Interestingly, he didn’t use the wooden frame nor the staples to determine the age, but the colors of the yarn which he felt dated it to the 1930’s – 1950’s. He also noted that it was an American made woolie, and that it was a bit unusual to see the painting on this piece.

When he asked me what I thought it was worth, I said I had no idea. Like those other people on Antiques Roadshow, I was delightfully surprised to hear him tell me the auction value: $100 – $150.

(Which just goes to show you that you shouldn’t be intimidated by events like this. Who knows what you have? Well, I certainly wouldn’t have without visiting Trash or Treasure or meeting these appraisers.)

I must have looked stupefied — or just plain stupid — because once he stated the value everyone looked at me. I mumbled that I had only paid a few dollars for it. Most were impressed, some were tingling with glee for my good find. But little did they know that I was equally thrilled to have a name for this type of art — now I had something to research!

Antique Sailor WoolworkWoolies, I discovered, are woolworks made (mainly) by sailors at sea and so usually depict pictures of ships (though other scenes were created). Diana Bittel explains:

The sailor-artist would sketch out his intended Picture on the canvas which would be stretched and supported by a piece of wood on each of two sides which would enable the picture to be rolled up and stashed away easily when it was not being worked on. After the picture was finished and perhaps the ship had returned to port, a more permanent frame would be made.

Most woolies were made between about 1840 and 1900 by British sailors. The American sailors seemed to pass the time creating scrimshaw works so the American woolies are fewer in number — and interestingly, most of these were made later than those the English made.

Making woolies was not simply a way for sailors to pass the time, but it was also practical. Since most sailors needed to know how to sew in order to repair the ship’s sails as well as their own clothes, woolwork was skill building. And, like Rosey Greer said, sewing keeps the fingers nimble. Sewing at sea kept the mind from growing numb with boredom and the fingers from growing numb with cold.

As you can guess, the woolworks with more time consuming stitching have higher values, both for the quality of the work and for their older age.

Many of the earlier woolworks tend to have a very time consuming chainstitch where each stitch seems to go into the stitch before and it is less than a quarter of an inch long. Later, the stitches become a much faster long and short stitch which could go for many inches at a time covering the canvas with a long stitch quickly and taking only a short stitch in the back before coming up in the front again. This would save the wool and make it much faster to work.

Embellished WoolieSome woolies included more elaborate embellishments, such as use of braided yarns, beads, paint, silkwork, paper cut-outs, and sails stuffed with cotton batting for a billowing effect. These too are more expensive. As are those woolie pictures larger than the typical 16 by 24 inches (thought to be the handiwork of retired seamen). But remember, all woolies are rather rare:

The popularity of the craft peaked between 1860 and 1880; the advent and increasingly common use of steam engines to power the ships drastically reduced the dependency on a large crew to keep things running smoothly. Another factor that had a major impact was the introduction and further widespread use of photography, which gave sailors a much less time-consuming way to immortalize their trips. While some photographs were incorporated into woolies, most viewed them as a replacement, rather than a supplement.

Nautical, but not a ship, woolieIt’s pretty clear that while my woolie isn’t very old, it also isn’t a fraud. However, due to the increased popularity of woolies, there are modern made woolies created to fool collectors. While those with vast ship knowledge may spot problems with ship details (such as number of guns, proportions etc.) the easiest way for a novice to note authentic antique woolworks is to look at the yarn. Genuine woolworks are faded on the front, with their more vibrant or original colors hidden on the back. (Being on the backside, the yarns are protected from light etc. Properly framing your woolie, including sealing the backside, will protect it not only from these things but those dreaded moths as well.)

Also, newer works most often have neater, tighter, stitches than authentic works. Katherine E. Manley and Paul Vandekar put it this way:

Often, the overall appearance is much more tight and tidy than an authentic work- this is not to say that fantastic, well-detailed, tightly-stitched woolies do not turn up, because they do- but there is a folk art quality that is lost in the modern pieces.It is, in fact, the folk qualities that make sailors’ woolworks so desirable. They display a wonderfully naïve charm that is often missing in marine paintings, yet at the same time offer a sophisticated, practiced look at the vessels and elements central to the livelihoods of thousands of 19th century men.

Charming indeed. I am now a huge woolie fan.

I shall likely never know if my rather modern woolie could be worth as much as $150, as it’s not for sale. It may be equally likely that I’ll never be able to afford a woolie collection as the older woolworks by sailors fetch thousands of dollars — but you never know… I’m not the sort who gives up hope. Or stops looking.

You can find woolies here, here, and here. And the Vero Beach Museum of Art has an exhibit, WOOLIES: A Sailor’s Art, running February 2, 2008 – May 11, 2008.

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Is Framing Preserving or Harming Your Collection? Part 1


Joan Loughridge of Dry Creek Gold Leaf, Inc taught a room full of curators a lesson on proper archival framing at the Mountain-Plains Museum Convention here in Fargo last week. I could not have imagined a more informative presentation fordry-creek-gold-leaf-fargo.jpg a collecting amateur, so I checked with Loughridge that I wouldn’t be giving away ‘trade secrets’ to write up a summary of what she taught us — her response was, the more people that know how to frame properly, the better. You see, museums get their art from somebody (they rarely produce it from scratch), so the artwork they receive already framed may or may not be properly cared for. It turns out that even the professional framer in your area may not be doing a museum-quality job. While this might be OK for a quick matting of a family photo to last on the wall for twenty years, museums are looking at centuries in terms of preservation — but if you’re so short-sighted as to expect to outlive your framed family photos, you’re really doing your great-great-grandkids a disservice. Everyone who puts care into framing artwork and wants their current collection to last should take some advice here and step up their preservation techniques, and recognize at what point a conservator like Loughridge is necessary.

A Few No-Nos

First, never get power tools near a piece of art. It’s much too easy for a tool to get away from you, even an electric screwdriver. Loughridge recommended a ratcheting screwdriver as a compromise. Also, when working on a framed work, always turn the side you’re working on towards you — never lean across any part of the art, front or back, when you’re working, lest you drop a screwdriver through it. And, lastly, if you’re screwing into wood, don’t be tempted to re-use old screw or nail-holes. The wood is already weakened at that point, and the screw is more likely to pull out. Loughridge wasn’t concerned about reduction in value of a antique frame caused by extra holes in the back, but the frame’s value would definitely be diminished by hitting the floor.

Canvas Paintings

First, before you start pulling anything apart, make sure you save any labels on the rear of the frame that might get pulled off during the process. Those labels are important for proving the age of the artwork, any provenance that comes with the work, or identify the frame itself. If this is the first time the canvas has been checked, the back of the painting is probably covered with a nice paper dustcover — it should probably be removed, so save any labels that are attached to it.

There are a few major ways that regular hanging of a canvas painting causes damage:

  1. The wire fails;
  2. The frame causes damage;
  3. dust and bugs get in the back.

The first is the most dramatic damage — the painting comes free of the wall, free from any resistance to gravity, and free to hit the floor at a high speed. Needless to say, that’s not very good for the art, whether a painting or a framed photo. First of all, overkill is only bad at absurd degrees: Don’t trust a 10lb painting to a 20lb wire — go to 50lb and you’ll have nothing to worry about. The ‘kink’ where the wire meets the nail is the greatest point of stress, and regular ’straightening’ slowly breaks the individual wires in the braided cable. If a couple broken threads reduces the 20lb wire to 10lb quickly, you’re going to have failure quicker than you’d like. The other points of stress, where the wire attaches to the frame, is the next place to check. Eye-screws should be avoided: they tend to work themselves out of the wood due to temperature changes and the diagonal strain the wire puts on the eye. Use stronger D-ring hangers, with appropriate sized screws (if the head of the screw shears off at 20lb, a 50lb wire ain’t going to save it). This distributes the strain of the weight more to the frame than the attachment point. And, finally, two nails in the wall are better than one: more distribution of weight. If you can, avoid wire completely, and hang the D-rings directly on the nails. This might not always be useful, as getting two nails even and properly framing-2-big.jpganchored is a tough task, but heavy works may require it.

Frame damage comes from the contact between the art and the frame. The simplest way this happens is the various vibrations and flexing due to people walking by or temperature and humidity changes. Most framed works have the painted edge of the stretched canvas right against the ‘rabbet’ lip of the frame. If you’ve ever found a peeling spot of paint on your bedroom wall or the hood of your car, you know how easy chipped and cracked paint spreads to the rest of the surface. If you let the hidden edge of a painting chip away, it will eventually migrate to the visible surface of the painting. The first step is to pull the art away from the frame. This CAN be dangerous, though: by being framed before the paint was completely dry or due to later moisture, the painted surface of a canvas might have become ‘glued’ to the frame. Check for this very carefully before you pull anything apart — if they are stuck together, only conservator’s care can part the two. If the canvas is properly loose, remove it from the frame (and use this time to replace the hanging wire: the stuff’s cheap, there’s no reason to reuse the old wire). As with most paintings, the canvas was probably nailed to the frame — and that’s bad. If the problem is the firm contact between painting and frame, it needs to be minimized as much as possible.

Two things are needed to reduce that contact: fuzzy tape and offsets. The fuzzy tape — either an acrylic felt tape with a glued-back or a strip of velveteen ribbon — needs to be glued into the rabbeted edge where the painting would touch the frame as a buffer from direct contact. While Loughridge didn’t mention it, I’d recommend first a colorfastness test of any tape you try: while acrylics shouldn’t be a problem, it won’t be very helpful if the tape bleeds on to the painting (thus requiring a conservator). Offsets are z-shaped pieces of metal which attach to the back of the frame as ‘clips’ to hold the painting in, framing-1-big.jpgwithout being screwed in to the canvas’ stretcher. This allows the canvas to be mounted securely in the frame, while allowing as bit of movement between the two without causing damage.

While you have the canvas out of the frame, you should at least check that the frame is in solid shape — regardless of how well the frame is wired to the wall or the canvas mounted gently, a collapsed frame won’t protect your art. About the only repair or conservation an amateur can do is to secure the corners from separating. Any corners that might be separating (or just for safety’s sake on a large or heavy work), screw an ‘L’ bracket across the corner. This gives extra strength to the corner, and reduces the likelihood of it coming apart. It might not be as pretty as the original joint, but do not get glue-happy: if glue were to seep out the front of the joint, the frame might look worse, and if its a historic frame then its value may be decreased.

To keep dust and critters away from the canvas, you need to cover up the back. That paper back you removed? First, it probably has a certain degree of acidity, which should be kept to a minimum — the wood in the stretcher and the frame are bad enough without adding more. Second, the nasty critters that will nibble at the canvas are also those that eat the wood pulp and glue in the dustcover. Loughridge recommends going high-tech: Coroplast, a corrugated plastic used in signmaking and packaging, is acid-free, doesn’t ‘outgas’ chemicals like foamcore (which may have acidic paper backing, too), is plenty strong to prevent damage to the back of the painting, and will act as a buffer between the canvas stretcher and the wall. It even comes in ‘clear’ versions that will let you see labels on the back of the canvas, or watch for infestations inside. The Coroplast is cut to size and screwed to the back of the stretcher (use washers so the screws don’t pull through). Don’t screw directly at the corners — the screw will drive into the stretcher’s mitre and pull the canvas apart! That, as you might guess, will need an art conservator in the picture.

If you’re handy with a screwdriver, these steps shouldn’t take very long at all, but they will have an immense improvement on the lifespan of your paintings. Remember, though, if you find any significant damage to the painted surface, you’ll need the help of a conservator. Don’t try to repair it yourself. Don’t try and clean a painting, don’t try to adjust the stretcher, and don’t gerry-rig anything.

Supply examples (these are not recommendations):

Tomorrow: Paper and Photos!

 
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