The Care & Feeding Of Vintage Jewelry

I was born in the 60’s & regularly going to & purchasing at rummage sales and flea markets in the 70’s, so when the 80’s hit, with all that flashy costume & rhinestone jewelry, I already had a large stash of pretty & unique vintage jewelry pieces. Since the 80’s fashions are making a comeback, I expect costume jewelery and rhinestones will again be popular. But why buy new when you can wear truly unique vintage jewelery like the stunning pieces shown here?

Here’s what to look for when shopping for vintage jewelry — and what, if anything, you can do about some problems:

* Very worn plating; missing parts, bends &/or holes in the metal; sloppy soldering or other bad repair jobs

Very old pieces of jewelry (including many Victorian pieces) which have been repaired have been done so using lead solder, which can eat into the metal below it. If this is an heirloom piece you may want to consider taking it to a professional jeweler who might be able to apply a patch (just like appliqués for clothing). While this may fix the ‘hole’, it usually looks repaired — so if the jewelery doesn’t have any sentimental value, it’s usually not worth the expense and effect.

Vintage Coral Jewelery

While we’re talking metal repairs, not all metal can be repaired. Even if it looks simple, like an earring finding or the loop on a pendant to attach it to a chain, the metal may not be able to be soldered for any number of reasons, such as the metal being too thin to be soldered or the enamel work and stones are too fragile to take the heat required for repairs (especially true with seed pearls & coral, which cannot be removed from the setting to avoid the heat).

Also, it is important to note that when heat is applied, silver, gold, & platinum all develop an ugly, uneven discoloration called fire scale. Polishing away fire scale is easy enough — but this polishing will also wear away any patina, making vintage jewelry look as shiny as new modern pieces. Once done, it cannot be undone.

When considering repairing both costume and fine jewelery pieces it is important that you interview your jeweler(s) to make sure they are accustomed to working with vintage and antique jewelery — and have them address your concerns.

* Green build up, aka verdigris

Caused by moisture (perspiration, swimming pools & other chlorine products, simple water), this green gunk is as unattractive as it sounds and it is damage. Any amount of green appearing on the surface of metal jewelry means that the plating in that spot is gone (see above). However, unlike Barbie’s green ear, this green on your earring can (usually) be removed and be made less noticeable.

Antique Green Rhinestone and Opal Necklace

Gently but firmly use a toothpick, old toothbrush, or even an emery board (not a metal nail file!) to remove the gunk. Some folks also swear by ketchup. I’m told that applying a bit of ketchup on the green area(s) for up to 5 minutes allows the light acid in the ketchup will ‘eat’ the green build up away; because it’s thicker than just applying vinegar, the ketchup stays in place and therefore does not run to other parts of the piece, risking ruining more metal &/or stones. (You can reapply the ketchup an additional two times — but no longer than 14-15 minutes in total time.)

If none of this works, or you end up with the green gone but a rusty looking spot in its place, you can use an oil based craft pen to color-in/cover-up the area.

* Broken clasps, broken strings and chains

Some clasps, such as spring-rings and lobster clasps, can be replaced easily. But if the clasp soldered on, it will need to be looked at by a jewelery repairer to see if it can be replaced/repaired.

Usually suitable replacement chains can be found. Take care that you are taking the size of the loop on the pendant or charm into consideration for both the clasp and thickness of the chain as that’s what must slide over the chain. Sometimes a simple jump ring (or two) can be used to address this issue.

Single and multiple strand necklaces & bracelets with cloth cord, silk cord or any type of vintage fabric may be restrung. Always lay the piece on a towel (or bead board) first and take at least one photo of it before you do anything else. This does two things: 1) you’ll know what it’s supposed to look like when finished, and 2) when you cut & gently pull the strands out, the design will still be intact. More details on restringing jewelery is here; how to restring & knot pearls information here

* Chipped or scratched enamel

I don’t know of anything which can be done with enamel. Ask your jeweler if you already own a piece; otherwise, avoid it.

Vintage Blue Daisy Necklace

* Badly scratched &/or damaged plastic, Bakelite or celluloid

Please see my Early Plastics: Identification and Care Guide for more on dealing with vintage plastic jewelery.

* Darkened or cloudy rhinestones, missing stones, and/or poorly replaced/mismatched stones

Stones, including rhinestones, can be replaced with care. You can gently pry the prongs up and use Acetone to remove the glue. Incredibly detailed information on this is at Sparklz.

To keep your jewelry — old or new — looking it’s best, follow these tips:

* Keep it dry — and most especially away from the swimming pool! Moisture does incredible damage to jewelery, so if your home is very humid, add silica packets to your the drawers holding your jewelry collection. Silica packets are found inside new handbags, in shoe boxes with new shoes, and with other things; ask folks to save them for you.

* Keep it dry & clean. Always put your jewelry on last — after you’ve applied hairspray, perfume, lotion etc. Not only do these products contain moisture, but these products can react with the glues & finishes, including causing stones to discolor and even to pop out.

* Do not toss your jewelery into a jewelery box, drawer or trinket dish. Keep pieces from rubbing (scratching) one another, tangling and catching. (Also, please review tips on caring for old plastics, which have their own special needs.)

* To clean & polish vintage costume jewelery use Sunshine Cloths. They clean without removing platings, washes, most coatings, etc. Note: the polishing cloths used by most fine jewelers will be too strong &/or abrasive for vintage costume jewelery, including the metal parts. Never use parts of the cloth that appear dirty; you’ll only be rubbing the old removed dirt & grime into the piece.

For plastics, there’s Novus Polish Kit: Plastic Polish & Scratch Remover (also works well on Lucite purses & other vintage plastic collectibles).