A quick stop — a dash, really — into an estate sale with the kids, and I grabbed this box of “junk” for $2.

All the kids ask what it is, and pressed for a quick get-away, I say, “A puzzle for momma.”

I’m not lying; it really is a puzzle for me.

But I do know what these 8 pieces are, what they make, even though I’ve never had one; it’s a fancy hem making gauge.

However, explaining hemming to children whose close are purchased off-the-rack and mended at night (not by elves, but by bleary-eyed parents who only dare use the needle at night when the house is calm & quiet) will take some time. And time could be my enemy here, where the seller, having more time to eye-ball the box, might just start to really notice the old pieces of paper in the box & decide that the price tag doesn’t include the papers (or some other potential problem).

So the lengthy explanation for my purchase will have to wait — wait for me to work my puzzle.

First, like any puzzle, I must take all the pieces out of the box. Then I must look over all parts of the box, cover & sides, inside & out, for a better idea of what I’m piecing together here. This box has no pictures, and, in fact, doesn’t even seem to be the original container for the pieces.

Second, separate the pieces — in this case, the papers from the metal pieces.

As none of the papers belongs to the metal pieces, I set the papers off to the side and begin to toy with the 8 pieces. I’m not the most mechanically inclined person, but even I can figure out square pegs don’t go in round holes, and so I can easily match triangle male parts to triangle female parts.

I do the same with the half-rounds. The large golden screw easily threads into the heavy metal base, holding firmly any of the aluminum triangle-based “poles” to the base. The curved pieces are for standard hemming at 2.5, 4, and 6 inches.

I have built a Chapin hem gauge.

With one piece left over. I don’t know what this straight ‘t-bar’ is for. Do you?

One part of the puzzle is done; but there is more to do.

Next, I research the device. The only name or markings are on the chromed iron base: Chapin (PAT APLD). I found nothing on the company. Though there was a tool-making Chapin company, which made some gages, I’ve seen nothing to indicate this sort of measuring device and so can’t confirm it’s the same company. (Perhaps these folks would know more.)

:sigh: Another unfinished puzzle. Ah, well, it’s something for another rainy day, right?

As I said, this hem making tool has little to do with the papers found in the box. There are 30 promotional fliers for The Butterfield Hem Finder.

This hem gauge is so grand, it’s called a “machine”. A lady, in this shown version, stands on the platform, and her skirts are draped over the ring, which is then raised to the desired length, allowing for the fitter to very easily mark a chalk circle all the way around the skirt, right on the fabric. (My Chapin only does an arch or part, meaning the fitter or seamstress would need to measure all the way around by hand, checking and rechecking for accuracy.)

But again, I found no information on Butterfield Mfg. Co, Fostoria, Ohio.

Poo.

However, from the illustration of the woman on the Butterfield ephemera, I am able to guess the time period. The skirting, hem length and silhouette of the woman is very Gibson Girl, making this hem finder machine part of La Belle Époque, or circa 1890’s to 1910’s. The similarity of hem length and design, leads me to believe the same of the Chapin hem gauge.

While this makes the Chapin a turn-of-the-century antique, it also is very practical. Should I ever have the time to put to use all my sewing materials — vintage & collectible, or not — I could make a lovely Gibson Girl dress with a proper hem with ease.

Don’t laugh. I just might yet.

Having a better idea of time frame makes it easier to search for possible patent information. While I had absolutely no luck with Chapin (even with its patent applied for notation), I was able to find the patent information for the Hem Finder — including when it was assigned to a Jesse D. Butterfield.

You’d think this would help me find out more about Butterfield Manufacturing Company; but no.

But I still have more puzzle pieces from this box found at an estate sale:Two pieces of paper from The Hollenden, Cleveland.

The Hollenden opened in 1885, and with the images of horse-drawn carriages, not cars, they appear to be from the hotel’s early days — which fits the same time period as the hem measuring devices.

But maybe the grand hotel didn’t update its stationery very often?

The sheets boast of The Hollenden’s 800 rooms, as well as mentioning James H. Thompson, Manager, and Adam W. Kuechle, Treasurer (making me think this is official hotel letterhead, not stationery for the guests). I research their names and confirm they both worked at the hotel in the 1910’s.

I’m not sure what sort of value these sheets of old paper would have for collectors of items from the Hollenden as they have creases, soiling, and been written on with a fountain pen. Researchers and ephemera collectors, such as myself, will find the sold script interesting. It could be Kuechle’s handwriting, jotting down some quick calculations. I do my best to read all the names and numbers… I can’t quite make out all the names/words on them, but then on the second sheet, on the back, I spot the (by now) familiar names… Chapin and Butterfield!

Of course, that also could be an “O”, making it Chopin — but with Butterfield? The odds seem too high for that to be a coincidence. And while items found in the same box at an estate sale do not necessarily come from the same time period, place, or person, these seem to be from the same time period. And they have many things in common…

Could these items be from a salesman? That would explain 30 copies of the same promotional flier. And the quick sales notes with figures (to be typed up back at the office).

I may never know.

But that’s part of the fun I have with my “puzzle boxes”.

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Article Tags: antiques, butterfield mfg co, chapin, collecting, ephemera, hem finder, hem gage, hem gauge, hem measuring, hollenden, sewing collectibles, vintage sewing

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This entry was posted on Monday, July 21st, 2008 at 5:22 am and is filed under Uncategorized, collecting fyi, flea market finds. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.